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April 24th, 2001, 02:33 AM
#21
Inactive Member
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April 24th, 2001, 04:32 AM
#22
Inactive Member
waveoff: If it's too hard to simply respond without the insults, maybe you should spare yourself from wasting the time and energy...and not reply at all.
I posted to get help...not to get flamed.
i mean geez...i learned more about your patience and personality in this post, than anything else.
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96 gsr hitting 12s
90 hybrid hatch hitting 14s
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April 24th, 2001, 03:29 PM
#23
Inactive Member
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by waveoff:
SIGH...must you folks be spoon-fed everything??? I don't mind helping people out but I shouldn't have to think for you as well.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Bwahahaha... 
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Mods
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April 24th, 2001, 08:16 PM
#24
MouhadIb
Guest
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April 24th, 2001, 08:40 PM
#25
Inactive Member
ok...
in terms of pressure of the rail...
or obtaining a means of getting pressure to a pressure gauge, pressure gauge sender, or fuel supply...
there are several ways you can go about this..
the easiest-
1) go buy a B&M pressure gauge kit.. and install that... if you have an autometer sender, just use that instead of the pressure gauge.
2) take off your fuel rail.. weather it be stock or aftermarket... drill a hole then tap a 1/8" NPT into it... these taps can be found in any hardware store... using heavy duty teflon tape or using high grade pipe sealant that's meant to be used with fuel... purchase a couple of 45 degree or 90 degree fitings and install your sender or gauge... when drilling the fuel rail.. make sure you drill perpendicular to the rail.. and that you drill at the center most to maintain enough material on both sides of the tap hole. drill all the way through until you hit the main through hole... also.. make sure to space everything up and do your calculations before drilling up the rail....
(if you need a drilled and tapped fuel rail, i have an extra GSR one)
3) you can also drill and tap the fuel rail like step 2, but then using a 1/8"NPT to a -3 or -4AN fitting... you can run a braided line to a gauge, or sender... this method is cleaner... and looks more professional... your imagination and creativity is ultimately what your setup will be limited to. i will get pictures of my setup as soon as it is done...
but if you are intersted in doing #3, go to amstreetrod.com they carry a lot of earl's fittings... you can create anything you want...
also, those of you guys with aftermarket fuel rails...
the STR fuel rail uses -8 AN fitting..
the AEM is a -6 AN...
so, if you are looking to use some braided lines for your setup.... you can go ahead and get a -8 AN to a whatever -AN fitting for a fuel line.... the top of the fuel filter of a honda (the banjo) is sized 12mm x 1.25mm... Dellorto / Solex / Mikuni
991945
so, have fun!
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April 24th, 2001, 08:44 PM
#26
Inactive Member
oh yeah, forgot to add...
DO NOT USE HOSE CLAMPS AND BARBED FITTINGS...
with the amount of pressure you guys with FMUs are running..
you will blow the hoses off...
creating a huge risk of a fire...
hose clams suck...they stretch...
if you really want to use this setup..
go with these..http://www.bakerprecision.com/hoseclmp.htm
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